Taste Ontario! Spring 2023

The VQA Wines of Ontario tasting event for trade and media was held in Toronto on April 12, 2023. Over 60 wineries were represented from all established wine regions (Niagara, Lake Erie North Shore, Prince Edward County) as well as some emerging ones. Over 300 wines were being poured for tastings - most of which are just being released to the public through either the LCBO or winery cellar doors. 9 wineries from The County were on hand for the event.

My first observation was how much things have evolved that we are seeing such diversity in the wines and styles across the province. Still known to many (that are not paying attention) as a place that produces only icewines, this event was a clear indication that we are anything but. I tasted so many great wines at the event that are internationally competitive in taste and price.

I noted more experimentation with skin fermentation and natural wine making methods (quite a large number of pet-nats were available for tasting) than I might have expected. Some were good, some were just funky.

But when it all comes down to it, the best wines of the day were the chardonnays, rieslings, pinot noirs, cabernet francs, and gamays (a variety that I wish we were doing a lot more of in Ontario). And the sparkling wines. These are clearly the wines being done well in every region (even in Ottawa with KIN vineyards producing some very decent chards and pinots), and they keep getting better and better. Each region and subregion displayed distinct differences across these grape varieties.

I did hit some very decent Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris in my travels, but not enough consistency across regions to say that these should be high on the list yet as being consistently good across the province (though there are wineries in Prince Edward County doing Pinot Gris very well). I think Sauvignon Blanc still has a long way to go in Ontario to compete with the prime international regions producing it at volume, price and quality consistency.

I’m still not a big fan of either the Cabernet Sauvignons or Merlots being done in the province. While they are drinkable, they are missing the depth, complexity and structure found elsewhere (and from a Canadian perspective Merlot in BC outshines any that I tasted at this event). I had expected to see a little more Syrah from Niagara, but I only came across one winery with it available at the event (and they do it very well).

Overall my impression is that we have much to be proud of in Ontario, and I can’t wait to keep seeing these wineries evolve over the next decade. There is no reason that Ontario wines should not be in every cellar, wine fridge, or drinking rotation for wine drinkers in the province.